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“Converting your Mayflower to wire wheels without cutting the studs off.”
Not altering the studs allows you to carry a steel wheel under the car. Also, I am not sure if a wire wheel will fit in the tire carrier as designed.
The first step is to make or secure the spacer plates. We were going to machine our own, but found .250” thick spacers available from Moss Motors for about $19 each. We could not buy the material and machine spacers for that cost. Moss p.n. 832-560. After doing allot of measuring, came up with a required spacer thickness of .150” would give full use of all threads on the original studs plus allow a minimum of .020+” clearance to the back of the wheel. Keeping these plate parallel is more important than the thickness. All of our plates ended up at .150” +/-.002” turned in a 4 jaw chuck with carbide tooling.
Next is the alteration to the wire wheel adaptor to clear the zerk fitting boss on the front hubs. Had thought about, but decided against, grinding the hubs for clearance and welding up the exposed slot. It seemed easier to mill a clearance slot in 2 of the adaptors (make sure you have a left and right). Using a ½” diameter, 4 flute, end cutting, carbide end mill, we marked off a start line inside the adaptors at .375” down and an end line at .900” down. We were thinking that we may cut thru the adaptor, but this did not prove to be the case. This milled slot has to be in line with any one of the mounting holes. These dimensions do not allow clearance for the zerk fitting. So after remembering to grease the front hubs, the fittings were replaced with ¼ x 28 x 3/8” long set screws. These holes are not tapped clear thru so the set screws cannot work their way in and the adaptor prevents them from backing out, just make sure that they are flush to begin with. You could alter the adaptors to allow for the zerk fittings to remain, but you cannot get to them without removing the wheel and adaptor anyway.
All of these parts were carefully fitted and checked several different ways to insure adequate wheel clearance with no issues found.
Story submitted by Ross Hoenig of Summerville PA, USA. Contact Russ for further information at email@example.com
Front Suspension Rebound Cable Assembly
After we got TT20192, we began inventorying parts that we had from it and TT6215. One unique part was shown on P. 12 of the Spare Parts List (SPL) as “103409, Rebound Cable Assembly”.
TT6215 had them as they appeared in the SPL with a cast eye on top and the bottoms secured with compression sleeves using some type of aircraft cable swaged onto the lower suspension eye bolt. Of course all this was rusted solid and the cables were broken.
TT20192 had the same top pieces but the bottom assembly had the cable swaged onto smaller cast eyebolts. Our luck was good as there were all 4 ends and one that still had the cable intact ( but broken, hanging on by several strands of wire).
During restoration, there were many e/mails to TMC asking about parts availability and alternative sources. I remember the response about the “Rebound Cable” as that “these are not available, not needed, and most Mayflowers no longer had them”. That was like a “red flag” telling me that someday, TT20192 would have them. For what, I did not know.
After several years of waiting patiently on the shelf, the ends came down, the exposed cable length measured 2 5/8”. The cable diameter was hard to measure, but was greater than 3/16” at about .210”( which is not metric). I obtained a length of 7/32” (.219) 7 x 32 aircraft cable.
One lower eyebolt end was superheated to see if we could pull the cable out which was negative. This particular end was put in a vise and was easily drilled out and we ran out of cable at ¾” depth. When another end was drilled, nothing happened, the various drills just spun. We were not going to super heat the ends with the rubber bushing, so another method to removing the cable had to be used.
We put the remaining ends on a lathe and “drilled” them out, using the tail stock, first with a 3/16” center cutting end mill and then cleaned them up with a 7/32” end mill. all the depths ended up being approximately ¾”. These two ¾” holes, plus the 2 5/8” exposed cable length gave a total uninstalled cable length of 4 1/8”.
With some careful alignment and twisting, the cables were inserted into the ends.
The question next was how to swage or secure them in place? The first thought was to silver solder or braze them, but after thinking and looking at them for several days, got the hardness tester out and found that the ends were very soft. I took a chance by placing one lower eyebolt end on the flat end of my vise and with a hammer, started working the metal starting about ¾” up from the end and with continually rotating the end and hitting moderately hard. By the time I got to the end, there was no way I could pull the cable from the eyebolt. A small file cleaned up any marks on the end, but there were surprisedly few. All four ends were done this way.
The test was installing them on the car and putting strain on them. Note the top pin goes in from the front and the lower pin gets installed from the rear. I added a non standard, very thin shim washer between the frame and eyebolt to protect the paint from the cotter pin. So far they have held and they add an unusual original feature to the car.
In hind sight and thinking from an engineering standpoint, these cables must have been added to minimize the body roll that I’ve always read about. Any added thoughts will be most appreciated.
Submitted by Russ Hoenig
Interchangeable Parts Listing
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